climbing and fitness
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Finger Strength and Climbing.

Byrichard
Reading Time: 3 minutes

The more often you boulder and climb, the stronger the muscles that pull the tendons to your fingers become, and the stronger those muscles become, the higher the grade of your climbs. Hand holds are not the rungs of a ladder or via ferrata. Sometimes you can use your entire hand but at other moments you will use just the fingertips of one hand.

On a climb such as this one I managed to get up two thirds to three fifths of the way up before my fear of falling took over. In this context it wasn’t that I was afraid of falling, after all I had “fallen on an easier route half an hour earlier. It’s that I could see what move I wanted to do, but my finger muscles would not allow it.

When this happens you look down at your feet, to see if there are other footholds and you lean back and try to see if there are other holds that you can use. Eventually you decide “I know what to do and I can try but there is a very good chance that I will fall. It’s a shame that my drive to succeed is overtaken by my instinct not to fall.

Professional climbers train for weeks, months and even years to strengthen their fingers. They have finger boards, they have balls that they hang from. They use elastics and plenty of other tools. They train with the whole hand, with four fingers, down to two fingers, or even one. That training means that they are able to hold their entire body weight while hanging on an overhang and last for long enough to clip in.

I have lost my former finger strength and I am trying the same grade of climbs as before, set by different route setters. At Rocspot in Lausanne I could consistently top 6a lead climbs. At Vitam I am still struggling. I haven’t learned the route setter’s techniques yet. With time I will

There is something to be noted. When outdoor climbing with the groups I am part of one individual often climbs as high their skills allow, they struggle for a bit and then they give up and come back down and the next person goes up and tries to make some progress. In so doing the lead climbers set up the top rope for less experienced climbers. In so doing everyone can enjoy specific routes. As we get better indoors we will not need to do that.

On the overhanging part I saw an agile climbing up 7 or 8a routes over and over. She would climb until she fell and within seconds she was back on the ground, ready to try again. She was climbing according to the IFSC rules. The rope is there for protection in case of a fall, not as a means of resting. I love watching such climbing. I spent three days watching it for hours at a time two or three years ago and I still enjoy it now.

Watching great climbers is fun because it gives you an appreciation of what you could do if only you developed the finger strength, sense of balance and agility. Climbing is an art form but it also requires the strength that goes with that art form. I would love to climb those overhangs but my finger strengths is currently blocking me. It has blocked me for two years. Persistance is an important part of climbing. I will get there.

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80/20 Running into Practice
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80/20 Running into Practice

Byrichard

I have been putting the 80/20 running rule into practice. The principal is simple. Instead of running to your max you run at a comfortable pace for most of your running instead. Instead of pushing yourself to be fast, you push yourself to have endurance. You train at a pace that is 80 percent or less of your maximum, to perform better when you race.


Train for Endurance, Not Speed


The concept is rational. You could train to your max but by doing so you tire yourself emotionally, physically and mentally. Instead of improving you hit a wall. The 80 percent rule builds on the idea that by training consistently at a lower intensity 80 percent of the time you build stamina and endurance.


With the Garmin program by Greg I find myself having to slow down, rather than speed up. I find that I need to run at a pace that is easy, rather than strenuous. With other coaches they say “do 150-200 steps for 30 seconds, then do glides etc.” Others say “Run this distance” and “Now run that distance”.


I prefer the coaching I have now. “Run at this pace for that duration” It isn’t about distance, and it isn’t about duration so much as it is about pace. I have to consciously tell myself to slow down, to take it easy. It isn’t that far from running pace. I know I can run faster. I need the discipline to slow down.


I am avoiding speed because I want to keep my knees from hurting. I want to strengthen them gradually, by training at a lower intensity, to give them the time to adapt and toughen up. This isn’t about speed. This is about being able to run sustainably for longer distances, without discomfort. Today I felt that I am getting to that goal. I felt that I could run for longer.


A Dog Chase


I actually stopped running because a dog, that was not kept on a lead, showed interest in me, and then charged me. I left the road and it followed, so I stopped in a field. For an instant I was convinced that I would be bitten today. It felt that way. I thought it had finally happened again.


Normally I would avoid a car, especially one that stops there, because usually dogs jump out and tend to charge. I didn’t turn around and change route. My habit of turning around and choosing another route, is justified after what happened. I hate that I keep being attacked. No, the dog didn’t bite me, but it did run after me. Dogs do that. That’s why I walked with hiking sticks before. That’s why on one route I picked up a big branch.


Dogs scare me. They threaten me several times a year. If I had continued running it would have bit me. I had to stop, so that it would stop. I am tired of overcoming my fear of dogs on every walk. I am even more tired of having my fears confirmed by these attacks, several times a day. I class a dog that threatens or runs after me as an attack.


Next time I will walk the other way. I will not walk towards a car that is stopping. Once again my fear is justified.

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The Great Wide Open – Episode 5

Byrichard

The Great Wide Open is a different climbing video than I am used to because it discusses history, culture and American identity. It speaks about the American Independence day and watching fireworks from “Devils tower“, a laccolithic butte. This is an interesting rock formation. The rock has vertical cracks that are impressive to see.

There are many aspects that I like and enjoy about this video. I like the visuals and I like the discussion of history and opportunism and passion. The segment that I like less is about death. I associate death with scuba diving rather than climbing. Recently I have watched quite a few documentaries about climbing and death. The film Sherpa and one other explored the themes both of mountain professionals and the risks they take and the other looked at climbers and the risks they take. They’re interesting topics but exploring the lives of people who live their passions is more pleasant. One person said “I think too many people live their lives, five days looking forward to the two day weekend and they don’t look forward to their life on the small amount of time we have on this earth.” That’s why I enjoy watching documentaries about this topic. For brief instants we get to dream and to aspire to new things.

There is a lot of attention in the media today about how women look and how they are perceived. The focus needs to shift away from how women look and focus instead on what they can do. Climbing news and videos are one way to achieve this goal. We see women who excel at their chosen sport and this has a positive effect. It takes us away from the superficial and presents us with the concrete. In climbing we notice women for their prowess rather than their looks and this is positive. I appreciate them for their ability  to challenge and overcome their fears. I frequently climbed with someone who was afraid and I would not hesitate to do it again. Enabling others is a good quality to have.

A Ride in 35° Heat

Byrichard

Yesterday I spent time in the sun in the morning, as a result of which I thought I would avoid going out in the heatwave. I changed my mind. Every Sunday a group of pétanque playing alcoholics play pétanque for several hours. They cheer, they laugh, they make noise, for hours in a row. I don’t want to hear that sound, especially since the pandemic is not over. People are still falling sick with Long COVID and they’re being disabled. It doesn’t take long to read posts on social media by people suffering from Long COVID.

Before the Pandemic

Before the pandemic I wouldn’t have been home, or if I was home I would already have spent the morning climbing, cycling, diving or hiking. Due to the pandemic I do these things but in solitude. I also have a routine. I normally study in the morning, and do sports in the afternoon. If I flip it around my intellectual capacity is reduced and my studying stalls. Yesterday proved the necessity of my routine.

I Can’t Say No

Two years ago I wrote about pandemic solitude. It still hasn’t ended. If I am asked to do things I have no valid reason to say no, but it also puts my happiness into turmoil, both to be asked but also to want to study but feel that I should be social instead. The more my morning is broken, the slower I am to reach my goal of feeling employable in a new career. This, in turn delays having the type of life that would make seeing other people fun, rather than an obligation.

Noisy Afternoons

Experience has taught me that the afternoons are noisy, and this noise is the reason I go out for walks, whether it’s raining, snowing, windy and cold or a heatwave. I find that my mental health benefits from getting away from people living as if the pandemic was not over. Plenty of data, around the world, shows that the pandemic is not over. That’s why cycling is such a great sport.

The Beauty of Cycling

The beauty of cycling, even during a heatwave is that you’re usually between villages and towns. You’re surrounded by clean air. I have become absurd, because I don’t want to be around strangers without a mask, especially around large crowds of strangers, in restaurants and other places.

Sunday is one of the worst days to be in solitude. If you go for a walk you will encounter family groups and groups of friends. You are in solitude, and they are not. You have to pass, you are reminded of what you are missing, and you have to survive the experience.

By being on a bike, especially on the roads between fields you are in solitude. If you choose the right routes you are far from people, from cars, from dogs and more. You are in the moment, watching the landscape change, heading upwards, downwards and across.

35°c

Yesterday it was 35°c according to the weather services, and 37°c according to my watch. Normally on such a ride I would ride much harder. I would try to beat all my speed personal bests. Yesterday I didn’t. I rode slower than usual. I wanted to spend time outdoors, keep fit, but without giving myself heatstroke. It’s not the heat that worries me. It’s the time spend in the sun.

At first I thought this would be a short ride, because I thought the heat would affect me. Since I felt fine I continued. I arrived at a fountain and I refilled both bottles, and I splashed myself. I didn’t feel the need to splash myself to cool down, but did it anyway, in anticipation of feeling overheated.

Quiet

I continued through the Bois de Versoix and I hardly saw anyone walking, or even cycling. I did get to a parking, and the parking was filled with cars. Everyone had decided to go to the riverside between the trees to keep cool. What seemed paradoxical is that I couldn’t see anyone. I could hear children and see the cars, but nothing more. Riding in such conditions is nice. No population stress.

The Place des Nations Fountains

Before I got to Place Des Nations I refilled my water bottle. I then headed down to the Place Des Nations fountains where children were playing. I put my bike against some seats, and allowed one of the water jets to soak me and my clothing. I then continued my bike ride.

I kept splashing water on my face but didn’t really feel the need. I did this as a precaution, rather than out of desperate need. I felt fine, despite the heat

Three or Four Sips at a Time

When riding in the heat there are moments when you feel your thirst grow, so you drink too much, too fast. It’s important not to drink too much too fast, or you’ll just waste it.

Luckily I didn’t.

And Finally

During this ride I made sure to ride more slowly than usual. I made sure not to push myself beyond my ability to cope with the weather. I also made sure to be hydrated at all times. I had one flask filled with water, and the second filled with an electrolyte drink. I topped up both. I calculate that I drank at least two litres, which, over three hours isn’t much, but it worked. I felt fine when I got home. I was still thirsty but ate some peanuts and then drank water. I was thirsty for re-mineralisation. I wanted to recover the salt I had lost.

Cycling is a good sport in a heatwave, because you’re riding in the breeze that you’re creating. My fear of heatstroke was not realised, luckily.

Byrichard

The octopus fell from my mouth during a dive and I watched as the regulator freeflowed air. I tried to grab it but didn’t get it on the first try. I didn’t panic. I went back to take hold of the regulator attached to the tank on my back but that wasn’t needed. I was able to get hold once more of the other regulator and waited for the water to be gone from my mouth before breathing in again. This happened about 45 minutes into a dive.

That had been the fourth and final dive in Spain. I had visited three different divesites on two different dives. The last time I had dived was by Portland harbour in Dorset England and this was in June of 2001. The biggest change was the visibility. In the Mediterranean you see quite a bit further and rather than doing wreck dives you explore the geology of the waters around where the cliffs were. You see quite a few boulders covered in sea grass, a few patches of sand and several schools of fish.

What makes diving around Moraira, Spain different from England is that visibility is much better, and you’re wearing a wet suit. The water is a comfortable 17 degrees. You get an opportunity to swim through rock arches and dive over and around other boulders. You change depth varying from 14 meters in some places to 7 or 8 in other places. For the first two dives the water was calm but you could still feel the surge as waves came in and out from the rocks. Occasionally we would arrive to underwater caverns and caves. Swim into the cave low and then swim out higher. As you rotate your body and look up you see urchins, sea anonemes and the occasional antennas sticking out from a single crustacean. In one case a fishing net was draped around a rock.

For the second day of diving the waters were rougher and the water was filled with sediment so visibility was not as good as on the first day. When you swam in certain areas you would feel a stronger surge. When the surge was against you it’d be an opportunity to stop. When the surge went the way we wanted to go we swam forward. As we took on the second dive the surge was strong. It meant we were using a little more air. We did see schools of fish on this dive, swimming up to them and crossing through. I was now looking around more because I was feeling more comfortable. I was trying to move my arms less, to control my buoyancy better and to glide more. This was only my fourteenth dive in four years.

On the last dive between the surge, the duration of the dive and the cooler waters I was down to fifty bars and quite quickly I was down to 20 bars. That’s when the instructor provided me with the octopus. That’s the backup regulator. I breathed from that one for the rest of the dive. It was a new sensation for me. On all my other dives I had always had enough air to reach the surface with air to spare in the tank. That’s when I found myself without the regulator to breath from for a few seconds. No panic though. It was just a matter of being methodical, knowing exactly what to do.

By the time I arrived to the surface from that last dive though I was tired. I inflated the BCD and swam back to the boat. Once there I took off the weight belt and rested holding onto the rope of the Rigid inflatable boat (RIB). Once I was back on board the boat I was tired. Finally I had the opportunity to dive, having waited years for this chance.

A few years ago when studying in the South West of England I had worked on an underwater documentary for Dorset as part of my HND and as a result had established some friendships with two of the scuba centers based there. In fact a friend was going to lend me a dry suit and all the equipment I would need to dive. If it hadn’t been for a change of plan I would have spent the summer diving around that area.

Now all these years later my parents bought a house close to Moraira and diving is affordable once more so I’m going to take advantage of this opportunity. I am in the process of purchasing all the equipment I need to go diving more frequently. It’s an activity I enjoy and the only thing that had been holding me back was the price of accommodation. As I grow more comfortable underwater I will purchase an underwater housing for my camera and start taking some underwater video.

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St Hilaire du Touvet РVia Ferrata du Belved̬re

Byrichard

St Hilaire du Touvet is a place I have always thought of as one where in Septembre there is an adventure film festival. What I found out on Saturday is that it has two interesting via ferrata. There is an easier one which you can explore as a novice and a more challenging one you can try if you like to overcome your fear of heights and fragile looking rock ascent.

I tried the latter and enjoyed the challenge. At first you park your car at the summit before walking down for half an hour. You meet a fork and start heading back up towards the start of the via ferrata. The path is not as clearly marked as it could be so we ended up scrambling up what is a river when the rain is falling. It was dry on Saturday.

The first part of the via ferrata is easy. You have a vertical climb with some contact with the rocks. There is some loose material so wearing a helmet is useful. There is a split where you can choose whether to do the hard or very hard via ferrata. For the easy one you go down to where the waterfall has dug itself a small pool. Beware the slippery rocks. After that I don’t know what the via ferrata is like as I did not explore this option. As you go to the left so you start a more challenging bit of the via ferrata. You climb for a few minutes before getting to a beautiful crack in the rock at the base of which is an overhang. The overhang is a physically challenge. It’s also a nice way to overcome your fear of heights.

I passed the obstacle suspending myself from my arms. I might as well have a little fun right? My feet were floating in mid air. The next part is hard (extremelly difficult by Via ferrata norms). You’re at least 20 meters off the ground and you’re heading straight up. The rocks do not look that solid although there are a lot of hand holds and foot rests should you prefer to use these than the metal path. The ascent is hard and there are few places to rest. You go from one side of the crack to the next and back.

There is a nice resting platform at one point, to the side from the via ferrata. Here you can rest for a bit, gather some strenght before the last 30-40 meters of ascent. From here you traverse to the left and reach a ladder. It faces outwards so you’re looking at the landscape. As if this ladder wasn’t enough of a mental challenge you have the reveral to get back on to the rock. This is not a natural thing to do. From this point on the via ferrata is normal as you make your way up to the parapente take off point.

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